
Contouring is one of those magical make up tricks, that truly is a trick because for the best outcome you have to have a good understanding of face shapes. Contouring for an oval face will be slightly different than contouring for a rectangle face. This map is not my favorite but it shows the basics and in this case a visual is better for grasping the concept. So to start what is contouring? Contouring is taking a shade slightly-moderately darker than your skin tone, like a bronzer, and a shade lighter than your skin tone, and by lighter by like 2-3 shades lighter and applying them in particular places to add dimension to your face. The image is a basic map of where to apply your darker shades. The idea here is to express the strong points in your face, for example cheek bones are a must. Now you don't apply the shade directly over the cheek bone, instead just under it creating a shadowing effect making your cheek bones stand out more. Next is contouring the nose. This map has a nice visual of how to apply for the nose. Avoid the nasal bridge with the darker shade, instead focus on the sides and scoop right under the nasal tip, if your do your contouring before your eyes then you can contour above the eyes, I personally put my eyeshadow on first then contour so I skip the darker shades because my shadow takes care of it. The forehead/temple area is a preference of how the darker shade is applied. The closer to the hair line the better, you don't want a dark streak across the middle of your forehead. I apply mine very similar to the map, the shadowing to the temples create a highlight to your eye area; where you want people to look at you. The chin is another area where everyone has their own preference. Personally I contour along my jawline bringing the shading down each part of my throat avoiding the very center. I then place a small amount on the "upside down U" under my lip, note a SMALL amount, just a tad will do, another place you don't want an obvious dark streak. The next critical step is to take a blending brush and buff out any harsh lines.
Now its time for the highlighting. This settle step can really make your face pop! Be careful with translucent powders, some are to shimmery. It's okay to have a little sparkle to give you that dewy look, but you don't want to look like a box of sparkles fell on your face. So for the cheek area you want to highlight under the eyes, some people go all the way under the eye out, and some just stick to the outer edge of the eye. The important part is to not get it on top of your cheek bones (blush goes there). Then for the eye, if you have not applied a highlight shade for your eyeshadow you want to highlight right under the outer half eyebrow. Now the nose, this is when you apply the highlight shade to the nasal bridge. It gives the appearance of a very straight and narrow nose. From the nasal bridge you'll want to continue the highlight up to the forehead and even bilaterally over the eyebrows. For the mouth, sometimes a liquid or even a white eye liner pencil works better here, to trace the center of the top lip through the cupids bow, and buff out with your finger. Then take a small amount of highlight powder and highlight vertically the remainder of the cupids bow and slightly around the lower outer lip (see map). You can highlight vertically down the chin if you'd like, then apply it to directly under your chin down the center of your neck. When your finished applying the highlight go back and buff out any unevenness or lines. Ideally the center of your face (vertically) should have that shimmery dewy look, with a light glowy undertone from the darker shade.
Contouring is definitely a cool make up trick. It takes practice to know how much to apply and how exactly you want to contour. Always start out with less product and work it in until you feel confident enough to add more. My favorite part of contouring is you can create these effects with settle changes and with the appearance of minimal makeup actually on the skin.
Whew this is a long one, thank you for reading and good luck!